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Swiss watches a hit, but will supply suffice?
By Joseph Dobrian
July 14, 2008
Basel, Switzerland—Despite concerns about supplies and pricing, U.S. retailers who returned from the Swiss watch shows in Geneva and Basel were full of enthusiasm for the new watches on display there.
Several retailers noted an overall movement toward "retro" looks. Tourbillons are favorite add-ons this year, but some watchmakers are hoping to score with bare-bones, basic models as well.
Watch retailers say larger-size cases continue to be a top trend, and that rose gold remains in vogue while white gold keeps making inroads. Ceramic materials are also hot, as are exposed works for mechanical watches.
"Two companies really knocked my socks off this year: Rolex and Jaeger-LeCoultre," says Steven Goldfarb, president of Alvin Goldfarb Jewelers in Bellevue, Wash. "Rolex came out with three absolute home runs. One is the updated 'Sea-Dweller DeepSea.' If they shipped me 50 of them, they'd be gone in a week—as it is, I've got six great customers asking me whether they're first on my list to get them."
Goldfarb also liked Rolex's new "Day-Date II," sized at 42 millimeters and ideal for clients who have worn the older "Day-Date" and want something bigger.
"The third [Rolex home run] is the 'Submariner,' which was updated with some of the same changes that were made to the 'GMT' last year, only in solid gold," he says. "The new Submariner has a beefed-up case and a ceramic bezel that's more scratch-resistant. It's now available in white gold with a blue dial, as well as in yellow gold."
Goldfarb also gives high marks to Jaeger-LeCoultre's "Reverso Squadra."
"Jaeger finally made a watch that women are going to like," he says. "It's a perfect size for women: bigger but not big, in quartz and automatic movements. The quartz, especially, will be a big seller—although we won't get as many as we need, as a company or as a country."
 | | Zenith's "Defy Classic," worn by a model, was among the buzzed-about new releases at BaselWorld. |
He also liked Jaeger Le-Coultre's "new and very retro" limited edition of the "Atmos" clock.
Andrew Block, executive vice president at Tourneau in New York says that many manufacturers are "revisiting their pasts" through retro looks.
Block gave high marks to Zenith's new conservative line, Vacheron Constantin's anniversary pieces and Glashutte's 1960s collection.
"Ebel has brought back the 'Beluga' in a big way, and Corum has bumped up its 'Admiral's Cup' as to size and metals, using carbon fiber inlaid in the bezel," Block says. "Concord has completely reinvented themselves with a lot of funky pieces, and Cartier is launching some high watchmaking models now. We saw a lot of tourbillons from various manufacturers, the tourbillon being considered the pinnacle of high watchmaking."
Block is also predicting that the new ladies' "Big Bang" from Hublot will be a big seller at a retail ticket of about $7,500, as will IWC's vintage collection and Omega's new 10,700-piece limited-edition "James Bond" watch, set to debut in November.
"But one word we heard over and over again at the shows, that made us uncomfortable, was 'allocation,'" Block says.
Richard Smollen, director of fine timepieces at London Jewelers, echoes Goldfarb's praise of Rolex, and gives high marks to Ebel's "Beluga." Patek Philippe's introductions also impressed him, as did Bell and Ross' package of 18 limited-edition watches.
"Limited editions are the big thing this year," Smollen says. "Most of them are take-offs on existing models, introducing different metals."
 | | Vacheron Constantin's "Malte Tourbillon Regulator" features a new, larger tonneau case and a mechanical movement that fits perfectly into its shape. |
Among his favorites were Harry Winston's new "Premier," which Smollen says boasts interesting complications, as well as TAG Heuer's "Grand Carrera" series and Breguet's large-size "Heritage Tourbillon." He also name-checked Baume and Mercier's new ladies' line, "ilea."
"But the big news was Vacheron [Constantin]'s "Quai de l'Ile," which the buyer can modify on a computer and get delivery in eight weeks or so," Smollen says. "That's a concept we're very excited about."
At King Jewelers in Aventura, Fla., co-owner David King remarks that the most noticeable trend is the open-works dials, which he considers "a very cool concept."
Another trend he noticed this year was that many watch brands seemed to be finalizing their collections, adding a piece or two, he says.
King notes that while some brands might price themselves out of the market, they're creating opportunities for other brands. But still, some—notably Vacheron Constantin and Franck Muller—are pricing themselves well, he says.
"American brand managers are begging for supply and for advertising money," King says. "The problem is supply, not demand; the consumer will be there."
—E-mail: jdobrian@aol.com
Editor's note: This story first appeared in the June 2008 print edition of National Jeweler.
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