Ladies' watches go glam in Switzerland

June 01, 2007

"Alhambra" watch in 18-karat yellow gold with mother-of-pearl by Van Cleef and Arpels.

By Beth Braverman

Basel, Switzerland—Larger dials and complicated watches remain the hottest trends in ladies' watches, as evidenced by their ubiquity at the Swiss watch shows.

But a stylish, more ladylike trend also appeared at the shows, with a renewed emphasis from watch manufacturers on diamond and gem-encrusted evening designs, known as "high-jewellery" watches.

While these accessories tell time, they also up the elegance factor to red-carpet levels, and retailers report augmented attention to the timepieces on a consumer level, especially from female self-purchasers.

"It's a huge category for us," says Tourneau Senior Vice President Andrew Block, who cites high-jewellery timepieces from Cartier, Chopard and Patek Philippe as strong sellers in his stores.

Harris Botnick, owner of Worthmore Jewelers in Atlanta, says his female customers enjoy high-jewellery watches as well, with some even dressing the pieces down with jeans and heels for a more casual evening look that still exudes luxury.

"We sell a lot of diamond bezels and diamond dials to women," Botnick says. "Ladies wear them all the time now."

Pavé diamonds and vibrantly hued, gemstone-encrusted watches appeared throughout the Swiss fairs in a variety of price points. Entry-level brands achieved the haute look with liberal use of crystals.

"Ballerine" watch in 18-karat gold with diamonds by Cartier.

The latest high-jewellery watches show clear inspiration from the realm of jewelry, with chain-link or bangle bracelets and organic motifs appearing in many of the designs. The timepieces also get colorful with bright silk straps that could easily coordinate with an evening gown, in much the same manner as a pair of shoes would.

Several manufacturers showcased "secret" dials that remain hidden in a piece of jewelry until the wearer decides to show them.

Other manufacturers even took the trend a step further, creating swinging pendant designs that incorporated watch dials, for the ultimate cross between jewelry and watchmaking.

Echoing a trend in highly complicated men's watches, a number of the high-jewellery watches also appear in limited editions, making them collectible as well.

Tips for selling 'high-jewellery' watches

* Consider the timepieces as jewelry. Make sure consumers know that these watches serve an important function as a statement-making accessory, in addition to their ability to tell time.

* Check your customers' social calendars. Women who attend black-tie events on a regular basis might really benefit from owning a high-jewellery watch. Consider lending a high-profile (and trustworthy) patron a high-jewellery watch to wear to an upcoming event.

* Host an event focused on high-jewellery watches. Drawing women into the store and getting them to think about high-jewellery watches might lead to a sale down the road.

* Don't forget about color. While high-end diamond watches get a lot of attention, gemstone watches represent a growing trend that lends itself to wardrobing, which can in turn lead to repeat purchases.

* Think self-purchase. While high-jewellery watches can make great presents, they also offer a new way for a woman to treat herself that combines both function and style.